Terribly sorry for missing yesterday... Today however, you get an extra special teaser on a project I've been working for the past few months. Bellydancers take note that you can come by and check this item out at the Canadian National Steampunk Exhibition.

The other tease is of a one-of-a-kind item specially designed for the CNSE

All this week, as a lead-up to the CNSE, I will be posting previously unreleased glimpses of new jewelry designs.
Today is my new "Berry Bunches" style in bronze and pink carnelian stone chips...

We're all busy here at Neverwares Emporium to bring you the best clothing and accessories at the CNSE. I've managed to snap a couple quick photos of some items that will be available...


Today is the last free pattern we're publishing before the Canadian National Steampunk Exhibition. Pictures for all the patterns will be arriving later this week, and some sneak peaks of the clothing available from Neverwares Emporium at the CNSE
HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE LADY'S CHOKER
By Isabel Beale of Neverwares Emporium.
THE FINISHING TOUCH, FASHION ACCESSORY FOR EVERY VICTORIAN LADY OR A STYLISH NECKERCHIEF ALTERNATIVE FOR THE AIRSHIP CREW-WOMAN.
Tool list:
Sewing needle, scissors, and a flexible tape measure.
Materials:
Two lengths of trim, each long enough to go around your neck plus an inch or two for straightening up and hems. One piece needs to be narrower than the other by about half an inch, the widest of the two being no more than one and a half inches. The trims are the body of the choker. You also need hand sewing thread of a matching colour.
Next on your list, two yards of ribbon about 3/8 of an inch wide in a colour match or coordinate for the ties. This ribbon is usually called “baby ribbon”.
I suggest that you buy your trim and ribbon at a fabric store rather than a craft store. Fabric stores will sell you as much or as little as you need. Craft stores usually sell pre-cut lengths only. Also fabric store trims are meant to be worn and used as opposed to decorative only. They tend to be more durable and cleanable, check with the store staff about cleaning method [hand wash or dry clean only].
Construction basics:
Measure around your neck and add a half inch and cut both trims evenly to this measurement.
Centre the narrower trim over the wider trim, both with the fashion side [pretty] side up.
Hand stitch the top trim to the bottom trim along both long edges.
Cut the baby ribbon into two equal lengths.
Centre and attach one length of ribbon to each short end of layered trims. The best way to do this is to lay the ribbon on the fashion side with cut ends even, fold all layers to the back side once then again a second time. This encloses all the cut edges. The folds only need to be about a quarter of an inch in width. Stitch through all layers and secure firmly. Either knot or dip the ends of the ties in clear nail polish to prevent loose threads.
Volia! Done and ready to wear.
For a more Steampunk look I used black taffeta ribbon with golden metallic edging and added a net trim with metallic and bead accents over it. I used black thread and ribbon to finish the choker off. Also shown in the photograph of materials are tea-dyed cotton lace, rose lace cameos and rose ribbon that I would use for the Victorian lady version.
I leave you with a few words of caution........chokers are like potato chips, can’t have just one.
A note from Isabel:
"Many people have asked my why I give the pattern for free for a skirt, pant, etc. I make and sell. Well, it's like this.........once you make one, you will understand it takes time and a bit of concentration to get the gathers, pleats, casings, etc. just right. Not everyone has the luxury of time or would simply prefer to spend their time embellishing a well made garment with trim, embroidery, paint or appliques to make it uniquely theirs."
Today's pattern from Isabel is:
A SIMPLE PETTICOAT
By Isabel Beale, the tailor’s grandchild
AN INDISPENSABLE ITEM IN A LADY'S CLOSET THAT GIVES EVERY SKIRT THAT EXTRA LIFT AND SWISH.
The finished petticoat sits at the waist and reaches to approximately the ankle bone.
Constructed of three tiers it needs surprisingly little fabric to make.
First determine your personal length from waist to ankle. Divide by three for your tier measurement. Add one inch to each tier measurement for seam allowances and hem. Using 36 or 45 inch wide fabric cut out 9 panels the width of the fabric by your tier measurement. Cut out 2 more panels but add an extra 1.5 inches to the length.
Stitch the panels into closed bands, 6 for the bottom 3 for the middle and the 2 largest ones for the top. The extra 1.5 inches is for the fold over waist band. Now ruffle one band onto the next in sequence, 6 panels at the bottom, 3 panels in the middle and the larger 2 at the top. Hem the bottom band, fold over the top into a casing of 1.5 inches approximately and insert elastic. The item is now ready to wear.
Here’s an example to help you figure out how much fabric you need. Based on a measurement of 36 inches from waist to ankle bone, this fits most women who stand 5 foot 4 and under. Waist and hip measurements are not really a concern as the first tier that covers both measures at least 65 inches around.
Based on either 36 or 45 inch wide fabric you need to cut 9 panels at 13 inches [1/3 of 36 plus 1 inch] and 2 panels at 14.5 inches [1/3 of 36 plus 1 inch plus waist turnover of 1.5 inches] the entire width of the fabric. This works out to about 4.25 yards if you use only one type of fabric.
I strongly recommend that you use a sewing machine to make this garment as the finished hem is over 7 yards around. I have made a material shopping list below and aside from a sewing machine you will need scissors, tape measure, straight pins and marking pen or chalk for tools. You can make the entire petticoat out of crinoline mesh or a light polyester sheer normally used for curtains to give lift without bulk. Putting trim around the hem such as ribbon will give extra swish and shape, which is quite helpful under heavier fabric skirts.
Shopping list
Fabric 36 or 45 inches wide = ____________________
Elastic, 1 inch wide, waist measurement plus overlap = ____________________
Ribbon trim 8 yards or more = ____________________
Thread = 1 spool
A note from Isabel:
"Many people have asked my why I give the pattern for free for a skirt, pant, etc. I make and sell. Well, it's like this.........once you make one, you will understand it takes time and a bit of concentration to get the gathers, pleats, casings, etc. just right. Not everyone has the luxury of time or would simply prefer to spend their time embellishing a well made garment with trim, embroidery, paint or appliques to make it uniquely theirs."
Next week will be quick and easy choker pattern, and some pictures of petticoats and chokers available from Neverwares Emporium at the CNSE.
As a lead up to the Canadian National Steampunk Exhibition, Isabel has asked me to post a couple of patterns for your enjoyment.
Today is:
LADIES BLOOMERS, HOW TO MAKE THEM
By Isabel Beale, the tailor’s grandchild
ARISTOCRATIC LADY OR AIRSHIP WENCH YOU ALWAYS NEED BLOOMERS. THIS SERVICEABLE GARMENT CAN HIDE YOUR NEATHER REGIONS WITH DECORUM BENEATH YOUR SKIRTS OR ACTS ALONE TO COVER YOUR BOTTOM AS YOU RUN WITH A WRENCH IN HASTE.
Easy to make relaxed to wear, follow these instructions to make a pair of bloomers. Made by machine or hand stitched all you need is basic sewing knowledge and equipment. A great beginner’s or “stitch and bitch” project. Also you can use this simple garment to showcase your hand embroidery. Read and understand, assemble your tools and material, practice safety with sharp objects and spend an evening making your bloomers.
Material List, for one pair of ladies bloomer that fit hips 34 to 42 inches.
Fabric, the amount needed is figured as follows: measure from your waist to below your knee cap/just above the calf of your leg. Double this measurement and add 12 inches to get the total amount you need.
Thread, one small spool to match fabric colour.
Elastic, 1 inch wide, enough to go around your waist snugly and that when stretched will fit over your hips. Half inch wide, enough to go around your leg where you want the bloomer to sit times two.
Hints, that will aid your success.
Choose light weight fabric in a 45 inch width. I suggest a plain coloured poly-cotton blend for the lady or a cotton quilting fabric print for the wench. Pre-wash the fabric, iron if it is wrinkled, even up the store cut edges to straight and cut off the selvages [woven edges]. If you don’t feel confident enough to draw the measurements onto the fabric use sheets of news paper taped together to make mock fabric. Bonus is you can reuse this paper pattern to make another pair without having to measure all over again.
Layout and Cutting, won’t take as long as choosing the fabric did (click the image at left to enlarge it).
Fold fabric in half, length wise first [long edges together], then width wise [short edges together]. You now have four layers. Cut across the top fold, this is now the waist edge. Measure 8 inches in from the cut edge [was selvage] and 10 inches down from the waist edge. Round were lines meet using a tea plate or compass. See diagram. Quick check: folded edge length from top to bottom is your waist to below knee cap plus 6 inches, give or take a bit. Cut edge is the inseam.
Sewing, in an hour or so by machine......days longer by hand.
Seam each leg inseam [right sides together] so you have two tubes with cut outs. Slide one inside the other right sides together and seam the crotch [cut outs] together. Turn right side out, fold over waist edge about 1.5 inches to make a casing for the elastic. Fold over bottom of each leg 1 inch to make a casing for the elastic. Stitch casings leaving a gap to insert elastic. Insert elastic into casings check fit [pin ends and try on] adjust elastic, stitch to secure elastic and close casing. Ready to wear.
A note from Isabel:
"Many people have asked my why I give the pattern for free for a skirt, pant, etc. I make and sell. Well, it's like this.........once you make one, you will understand it takes time and a bit of concentration to get the gathers, pleats, casings, etc. just right. Not everyone has the luxury of time or would simply prefer to spend their time embellishing a well made garment with trim, embroidery, paint or appliques to make it uniquely theirs."
Next week will be charming pattern for a simple petticote (also known as a peasant skirt), and some pictures of bloomers available from Neverwares Emporium at the CNSE.