Bloomers, a must for every lady or wench

As a lead up to the Canadian National Steampunk Exhibition, Isabel has asked me to post a couple of patterns for your enjoyment.

Today is:

LADIES BLOOMERS, HOW TO MAKE THEM

By Isabel Beale, the tailor’s grandchild

ARISTOCRATIC LADY OR AIRSHIP WENCH YOU ALWAYS NEED BLOOMERS. THIS SERVICEABLE GARMENT CAN HIDE YOUR NEATHER REGIONS WITH DECORUM BENEATH YOUR SKIRTS OR ACTS ALONE TO COVER YOUR BOTTOM AS YOU RUN WITH A WRENCH IN HASTE.

Easy to make relaxed to wear, follow these instructions to make a pair of bloomers. Made by machine or hand stitched all you need is basic sewing knowledge and equipment. A great beginner’s or “stitch and bitch” project. Also you can use this simple garment to showcase your hand embroidery. Read and understand, assemble your tools and material, practice safety with sharp objects and spend an evening making your bloomers.

Material List, for one pair of ladies bloomer that fit hips 34 to 42 inches.

Fabric, the amount needed is figured as follows: measure from your waist to below your knee cap/just above the calf of your leg. Double this measurement and add 12 inches to get the total amount you need.

Thread, one small spool to match fabric colour.

Elastic, 1 inch wide, enough to go around your waist snugly and that when stretched will fit over your hips. Half inch wide, enough to go around your leg where you want the bloomer to sit times two.

Hints, that will aid your success.

Choose light weight fabric in a 45 inch width. I suggest a plain coloured poly-cotton blend for the lady or a cotton quilting fabric print for the wench. Pre-wash the fabric, iron if it is wrinkled, even up the store cut edges to straight and cut off the selvages [woven edges]. If you don’t feel confident enough to draw the measurements onto the fabric use sheets of news paper taped together to make mock fabric. Bonus is you can reuse this paper pattern to make another pair without having to measure all over again.

Layout and Cutting, won’t take as long as choosing the fabric did (click the image at left to enlarge it).

Fold fabric in half, length wise first [long edges together], then width wise [short edges together]. You now have four layers. Cut across the top fold, this is now the waist edge. Measure 8 inches in from the cut edge [was selvage] and 10 inches down from the waist edge. Round were lines meet using a tea plate or compass. See diagram. Quick check: folded edge length from top to bottom is your waist to below knee cap plus 6 inches, give or take a bit. Cut edge is the inseam.

Sewing, in an hour or so by machine......days longer by hand.

Seam each leg inseam [right sides together] so you have two tubes with cut outs. Slide one inside the other right sides together and seam the crotch [cut outs] together. Turn right side out, fold over waist edge about 1.5 inches to make a casing for the elastic. Fold over bottom of each leg 1 inch to make a casing for the elastic. Stitch casings leaving a gap to insert elastic. Insert elastic into casings check fit [pin ends and try on] adjust elastic, stitch to secure elastic and close casing. Ready to wear.

A note from Isabel:

"Many people have asked my why I give the pattern for free for a skirt, pant, etc. I make and sell. Well, it's like this.........once you make one, you will understand it takes time and a bit of concentration to get the gathers, pleats, casings, etc. just right. Not everyone has the luxury of time or would simply prefer to spend their time embellishing a well made garment with trim, embroidery, paint or appliques to make it uniquely theirs."

Next week will be charming pattern for a simple petticote (also known as a peasant skirt), and some pictures of bloomers available from Neverwares Emporium at the CNSE.