Bigger is Better

Today's pattern from Isabel is:

A SIMPLE PETTICOAT

By Isabel Beale, the tailor’s grandchild

AN INDISPENSABLE ITEM IN A LADY'S CLOSET THAT GIVES EVERY SKIRT THAT EXTRA LIFT AND SWISH.

The finished petticoat sits at the waist and reaches to approximately the ankle bone.

Constructed of three tiers it needs surprisingly little fabric to make.

First determine your personal length from waist to ankle. Divide by three for your tier measurement. Add one inch to each tier measurement for seam allowances and hem. Using 36 or 45 inch wide fabric cut out 9 panels the width of the fabric by your tier measurement. Cut out 2 more panels but add an extra 1.5 inches to the length.

Stitch the panels into closed bands, 6 for the bottom 3 for the middle and the 2 largest ones for the top. The extra 1.5 inches is for the fold over waist band. Now ruffle one band onto the next in sequence, 6 panels at the bottom, 3 panels in the middle and the larger 2 at the top. Hem the bottom band, fold over the top into a casing of 1.5 inches approximately and insert elastic. The item is now ready to wear.

Here’s an example to help you figure out how much fabric you need. Based on a measurement of 36 inches from waist to ankle bone, this fits most women who stand 5 foot 4 and under. Waist and hip measurements are not really a concern as the first tier that covers both measures at least 65 inches around.

Based on either 36 or 45 inch wide fabric you need to cut 9 panels at 13 inches [1/3 of 36 plus 1 inch] and 2 panels at 14.5 inches [1/3 of 36 plus 1 inch plus waist turnover of 1.5 inches] the entire width of the fabric. This works out to about 4.25 yards if you use only one type of fabric.

I strongly recommend that you use a sewing machine to make this garment as the finished hem is over 7 yards around. I have made a material shopping list below and aside from a sewing machine you will need scissors, tape measure, straight pins and marking pen or chalk for tools. You can make the entire petticoat out of crinoline mesh or a light polyester sheer normally used for curtains to give lift without bulk. Putting trim around the hem such as ribbon will give extra swish and shape, which is quite helpful under heavier fabric skirts.

Shopping list
Fabric 36 or 45 inches wide = ____________________
Elastic, 1 inch wide, waist measurement plus overlap = ____________________
Ribbon trim 8 yards or more = ____________________
Thread = 1 spool

A note from Isabel:

"Many people have asked my why I give the pattern for free for a skirt, pant, etc. I make and sell. Well, it's like this.........once you make one, you will understand it takes time and a bit of concentration to get the gathers, pleats, casings, etc. just right. Not everyone has the luxury of time or would simply prefer to spend their time embellishing a well made garment with trim, embroidery, paint or appliques to make it uniquely theirs."

Next week will be quick and easy choker pattern, and some pictures of petticoats and chokers available from Neverwares Emporium at the CNSE.